Tag Archives: Delhi

The things that I love, and love to hate, about India

Over the past three weeks we have been shocked and surprised and downright disgusted, but recently we have learnt that some of those things that are ridiculous about India, are also quite endearing. Those things, I will miss as we leave this place for our next destination, and then there are some things I will definitely not miss… Here are some things about India that I will never forget:

The song of the Chai Wallas as you walk past them on a street or in the corridor of a train, singing: Chai chai chai chai chai chai in a monotone, and then they stop and say it once more in a higher pitched question to make sure you didn’t miss out.

The Good Day “Rich Butter Cookies,” a staple snack for Westerners and Indians alike.

The colours of the clothes that the Indian women wear. No matter who it is, from young to old, they wear the brightest and most ornate saris and cloths…and they look beautiful in them, something I could not pull off without looking like a Christmas tree.

Beautiful bright coloured Saris

The animals, from cows to ponies to donkeys to camels to every kind of mutt you can think of, the animals rule the streets and they never cease to amaze me.

A camel-cart in Agra

The way the Indian people set up camp in the railway stations and bus stations: they arrive, lay out some blankets, sit/lie down in the middle of the platform, pull out their food and drinks and settle in for the long wait…and there will be a long wait, no matter what time you arrive.

The endless stares from everybody, wherever we go, whatever we do, they stare. From the tiniest two-year-old to the oldest grandmother, men, women, they indignantly stare right into your eyes, and then turn around to have another look, as if you’re an animal in the zoo.

The way many people come up to us and ask for a photograph and then thrust a baby into your arms and say, “smile.” And its not over yet, then its one with the aunty and one with the uncle and one with the little children too.

The plea of the shopkeepers, “Looking is free, no buy, just come inside and look” and then once you step inside and look around (if you dare), they start to bargain, “only Rs100, how much you pay, Rs80, cheap price, no expensive.”

They way the people latch onto English words and use them endlessly. For example:

“German Bakery”: A place that sells croissants and cakes, of any kind.
“English Beer and Wine shop”: If you’re lucky it will sell beer, sometimes only whiskey, and never wine.
“Share Jeep”: Any type of SUV or just a car that you can buy a seat in to travel from one city to another, mostly in the mountains. Note, middle seats are pricier and if you want to have a back seat to yourself, you pay a premium.

The "liquor" store in India

How we are pushed aside and pushed in front of in any queue. Whether you’re at the bank, or the airport, don’t bother standing in a queue because some one will just walk in front of you and ignore you.

The way the officials have a system, that they probably don’t understand, but they do it anyway, because it has always been done that way. The worst part is that they won’t tell you what the process is, or why. They will just take your passport (and you later find out  that they went to the next door shop to photocopy it), while you stand there mouth gaping, wondering if you should go after them or if they will ever give your passport back.

Lastly, but certainly not least, the one thing I will always remember about India are the smells. From the sweet, cinnamon smell of chai being brewed on the street; to the smell of incense wafting out of a roadside shrine; to the stench of  sewerage water running down the gutter…India has the most complex mix of smells of any country I have visited before.

If you start to build a picture of India in your mind from these idiosyncrasies, then I hope that this makes you intrigued enough to visit the place one day. Although a tough place to visit, India has taught us so much about ourselves and the world, an experience we wouldn’t pass up for all the Chai in India :)

This is where all the action happens :)

The past couple of days we have been on the move, getting ready for our next move to Thailand. We flew from New Delhi (out of a beautifully clean and sparkly airport) to Kolkata (a not so beautiful and not at all clean airport) and this morning we left Kolkata again to arrive in a pristine clean (well, compared to India anyway) Bangkok this evening. We were sad to leave India after all, but ready to experience a whole new culture in Thailand.

D x

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INDIA INDIA INDIA

So it’s been a while, Dom has been going blog crazy and I haven’t had any interesting things to talk about… Well that’s my excuse anyway!

Dom and I have tried our best to make this the most ‘un-clichéd’ Round the World Trip blog possible, but I guess that there is only a certain point to which you can stray from the framework. We have done some serious planning into India, sort of to the detriment of the rest of the trip planning. However, we feel that India is going to be one of our biggest challenges both culturally and in that we will both be completely out of our comfort zones, but in the end that’s why we want to travel.

So on India… We fly into Mumbai, India’s largest city at an unbelievable 17 million people. We were watching Culture Shock the other day, the Mumbai episode completely blew us away. I wasn’t too enamoured by the documentary but that’s not what we were watching it for. I remember them showing us how the people are so incredibly obsessed with their cricket. It is immense, they will play through rain or shine, no matter what. I think what struck me about that was the human-ness of it all. I have been researching India for its cultural and historical significance, and although this is a major part of the reason we (and many others) are visiting India, the culture isn’t confined to colourful traditions, etc, but the people themselves. This is what I want to experience!!!!

We collect our passports from the Swiss embassy tomorrow and from there we courier them straight away to the Indian embassy in Johannesburg. Part of the new regulations for South Africans is that we need accommodation booked for our entire trip through India so we have been madly booking hostels and getting in touch with friends who can be our references there. This has, in a way defined our journey through the country and if you are still reading by this stage I’m sure you are interested enough to read where we are actually planning to go. And hopefully those who are reading this who have been fortunate enough to travel to India can give us some insight and some pointers on what to see in these places.

Leg one will be from Mumbai to Delhi, we plan to spend a couple of nights in the city before travelling North to the Ladakh region of Kashmir and to the city of Leh (pronounced ‘Laye’). A friend of ours recommended this trip to us as opposed to travelling South further into Rajastan and Goa (our original plan) because we will be in India right in the middle of monsoon season.

I am very easy to please and the Pangong Lake is reason enough for me to visit the area. For photographic reasons alone!

Pangong Lake, Ladakh

So this incredible place is apparently fairly easy to access, a few hours’ drive (160km) from Leh but only by 4×4 vehicle so it could be quite pricey… not exactly the budget side of things but it will be worth it! It’s also in the foothills of the Himalayas, and its probably the highest above sea level we will both be, possibly ever, at something crazy like 17000ft. Gorsh!

From Leh we have decided to do the recommended Golden Triangle including the cities of Jaipur and also Agra, most famous for being where the Taj Mahal is located. We’ve been told that its fairly easy to find a place to stay in Agra, a hostel of some sort, that has a roof top area that will overlook the Taj.

Through the lens of others I have seen a lot of amazing sights and colours and people and so many other things. Now it’s time for Dom and I to see and to experience all the stimulus ourselves.

We’ll be travelling by train, it’ll definitely be the best way to experience and take in as much as possible. AAAAAND… sleeper trains might just save us some exploring time and money spent on accommodation. The trains in India are one of the influences brought into the country by the British but as with all of these influences, the Indians have made them uniquely their own. I wish I could take my bike with me, but that would take some time, and I don’t think it would survive the trip.

Our last week of India will be spent in Varanasi, the religious capital of India. We’re looking forward to the variety and the mish-mash of different cultures coming together in one place. All that I have read about Varanasi says that is one of the great places to see and to experience in India.

I’ve been rambling on going from place to place and now I’m done… We are going to see Kolkata, India’s capital as our last stop before Thailand. The problem is, I just watched Globe Trekker on Los Angeles and now my brain’s on the USA leg of the trip… uh oh!

Until next time, Trist out!

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